Friday, August 20, 2010

los santeros next door


I met a Santero yesterday. Well, in reality, I met him a while ago. But I really spoke to him yesterday. He invited me into his home and showed me a bunch of cositas he had all throughout the house. I met Cuca, his African parrot, who screams "oye!oye!" and "Cafe, Cafe" looking for attention. The parrot is greyish blue with beautiful orangy-red feathers on its tail. Joey-- his name is really Jose-- (the Santero)told me the bird was the main bird of Santeros. When you are initiated into the religion, the red feathers are plucked from the bird and put into the hair of the initiate. Cuca loved Joey, you could tell. From the moment he entered the room, she watched him from the side of her head.... following his movements with her one little eye. And when he would ask for a kiss, she would face her head down, stick her head out to the side,straining her neck and then make a strange hissing squawk.

Joey showed me the two bedroom apartment, my apartment is only one bedroom. He was very nice and seemed happy to speak to me. He showed me the room where he kept all his santeria statues and it was very cool. I couldn't actually step into the room, because you have be freshly out of the shower to step into the room. But from the outside of the door, he pointed out statues and idols and told me who they were and what they were doing. Chango, was in a bowl and above him Bananas were hanging. In order for Chango to be in the room with the other gods, he must have bananas, otherwise he causes trouble and messes shit up because he feels disrespected and uncared for. Chango was not standing, he was placed on his side in the bowl. Joey said that was in case Chango got fiesty-- it would be more difficult for him to mess shit up if he was off-balance.

All the doors in the Santero's house were decorated with Palm fronds and other little items whose working qualities I am unaware. Joey told me that all santeros have Palm fronds above their doors, so as to catch pieces of the spirits as they enter and leave a room. I liked that idea--- that you don't necessarily need the whole spirit, just parts of them. Any part of them would be better than nothing.

I am researching and writing slowly my dissertation and poco a poco I am learning how deeply imbedded santeria was in the development of Cuban culture. I have always been surrounded by hints of santeria through my father's family. They never speak about what they practice, but sometimes I will find empty glasses of water below crucifixes or old cuban coins left in salt and water next to the bed. Mangos under the bed, and yes, bananas hanging over doors, just like Joey's bananas for Chango. I told Joey about some of the things my Tia Ana would do and he wasn't sure if it was Santeria or Espiritismo. He thought she was a medium. I just don't know. I would ask Tia Ana,"Que haces Tia? Porque haces esto?" and her reply was simply, "por costumbre". And then some nights she would disappear. Who knows, she won't tell me..... to her I am too white and mami's family would only judge her (this is according to her).

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